my choice of flash modifiers
There is a fundamental principle in lighting :
the larger your light source, the softer your light.
Using any of the myriad of flash modifiers that are on offer, helps in achieving that – spreading the light from the on-camera Speedlight much wider, thereby creating softer light that direct flash would’ve given. However, (and this is a big however), these flash modifiers also throw light forward. Ultimately all flash modifiers do the same thing – they disperse a lot of light around the room, while throwing some measure of light directly forward to lift shadows under the eyes and bring a sparkle to the eyes.
That is a huge step up from using direct flash – (or poorly bounced flash.. ie, flash at 45′ or 60′ forward) – but won’t be as good as directional light. Directional light falls onto your subject from a specific angle. This direction can very often be carefully chosen even when you use an on-camera flash indoors.
The image at the top is from a wedding I photographed a few weeks ago.
I touched up the WB in RAW, and that’s that. Simple, and it looks just great.
The light is soft, and the baby wasn’t bothered by any direct flash … since there was NO direct flash at all.
The way I achieve directional light from my flash is by adding what is in effect, a half-snoot on my on-camera flash. The half-snoot (or flag) will partially block the light, and also direct it. I also very often when shooting in tungsten light, use a filter on my flash to bring the cold light of the flash closer to the warmer tones of tungsten light.
I simply stick a piece of gel over the head of my Speedlight with some gaffer’s tape.
It is low-tech, but it works.
By gelling my flash for tungsten I change the grungy orange backgrounds to a more pleasing warm tone.
The gel used in the image of the baby above, was full CTS. I keep my camera’s WB to Tungsten. And in post-production I fine-tune the WB, since by bouncing my flash, it picks up an additional colour from the walls and ceiling. The gel shown in the illustration here is 1/2 CTS. I then keep my WB of my camera to 3800 K, which is still much closer to Tungsten, than the 5400K of flash.
The black half-snoot / flag that I add to my Speedlight is just as simple. It’s a piece of thin black foam bought from an arts store, and then cut smaller.
I keep the piece of black foam tied to my Speedlight with a hair band that I stole from my daughter. Yup, low-tech and simple … and it works!
This piece of black foam around my Speedlight has two advantages:
1. Directional light. I can now much more precisely direct where I want my light to come from.
2. Less annoying to others. In turning my flash to the side or to point behind me, I would risk blasting other people directly in the face with flash. This piece of black foam keeps that from happening. I now direct my flash over people’s heads, and no flash hits people directly in the eyes.
 |
And that is the flash modifier I most often use. Total cost is less than $2.oo
However, if you feel the need to splash some money on hardware that is custom-made for you, send $40 to my Paypal account. I will cut a piece of foam for you, add the hair band, and even sign it with silver pen. Oh, go on, you know you want one. It will surely become a collectible. ;) |
| The additional advantage with this light modifier is that you retain the cool all-black stealthy ninja-photographer look.
This is Elisabeth, who often works with me as a 2nd photographer. |
 |
.
.
The only other light modifier that I use, is a Stofen cup. This I use when I am in a situation where I do need light thrown directly forward. I also use it in rooms where the ceiling is too high to successfully shoot with the black half-snoot.
However, I still want a measure of control over where I direct my light. Therefore I cut a hole in the top of the Stofen so that the majority of light can still be thrown in a direction of my choice, instead of being scattered all around. (I do keep a spare Stofen on hand that is unblemished, as well as an Amber coloured Stofen.)
To be able to flip the Stofen in and out of position, I keep it down with a piece of gaffer’s tape. So if I want to take a shot without it, I simply flip it over.
.
.
And there they are – the only light modifiers that I use when I use on-camera Speedlights.
In my weddings and portrait work, I often do use off-camera lighting, whether Speedlights or Q-flashes. But with on-camera strobes, these are the only light modifiers I use. And they are all I need.
Peter Said,
December 13, 2007 @ 11:07 pm
Pure brilliance. Such simplicity. I am a 100% convert to this blog.
Keep it coming.
albert Said,
December 14, 2007 @ 12:17 pm
like it! Nice look and great effect. Do you find that the foam “blocker’ allows enough light to hit the subject in front of you?
Neil Said,
December 14, 2007 @ 3:09 pm
Joel Howell Said,
December 14, 2007 @ 10:46 pm
Wonderful Information! What is the difference between the gel material and the amber stophen and when would you use one over the other?
Neil Said,
December 15, 2007 @ 1:05 am
Craig Smith Said,
December 15, 2007 @ 11:01 pm
Hi Neil,
Very impressive !!! Peter Gregg said to check you out, and he was right … you have the touch. I too use a Stofen, and reside in Santa Cruz where Stofen is located. If you ever plan on heading out this way, let me know. Dinner is on me!
best regards,
Craig
Rishi Said,
December 17, 2007 @ 2:39 pm
Hi, your blog is awesome. It’s truly very informative and helps people like me steal a few paces up the learning curve of flash photography. Thanks. And can’t wait for your next post!
Eileen Said,
December 18, 2007 @ 4:09 am
Just echoing what Rishi said. This is a great blog. Thank you for being so generous and sharing your knowledge with us learners.
Brian Said,
December 19, 2007 @ 1:15 pm
Neil,
You stated that the for the picture of the baby you used a full CTO gel. Was that to match a different temperature? Personal preference? If you were matching a different temperature how did you come to the conclusion of using the 2900K gel?
Great blog as always..
Brian
Neil Said,
December 20, 2007 @ 11:54 pm
Stephen Said,
December 21, 2007 @ 11:15 am
Hi Neil,
I have to obtain an extra Stofen, so I can cut a hole into it. That will be somewhat helpful in convention centers where the ceiling is so high up, that the speedlight has nothing to bounce off.
I appreciate this blog more after having sat down with you for the instruction.
–Stephen
Steve G Said,
December 27, 2007 @ 6:35 pm
Hi Neil, Thanks for your insight.
I shoot a lot of community events (not sporting) in a large gymnasium – pretty high ceiling. Next time, I’ll give the Neil-ized Stofen a try. I have a few questions, though.
-Due to the size of the room, I believe using any stofen would waste all the light being thrown behind the camera. I was thinking of putting black gaffers on the back of the stofen to prevent some light loss. Have you ever tried this? Would this throw too much light directly forward?
Thanks and Happy New Year.
Neil Said,
December 29, 2007 @ 7:28 pm
Lance Said,
January 3, 2008 @ 8:51 am
Hey Neil, great article. When you shoot with your black modifer are you using any other room lights? Also, can you give me an idea of what ISO and f stops your using? I’m guessing your maybe shooting at around f4 ISO 1600 or so. I love the effect and can’t wait to try it.
Lance
Neil Said,
January 3, 2008 @ 7:21 pm
Kafka Said,
January 5, 2008 @ 6:31 am
Hi, Neil,
Thank you for sharing your insights. They are very helpful.
I found a product of LumiQuest (http://www.lumiquest.com/lq931.htm) that shares the fundamental concept of your 40-dollar black half-snoot, although its price tag is no less than yours.
The bonus of its entire system allows you to redirect the flash forward with a (coloured) metallic card attached to the opening end of the hallf-snoot, when the flashgun is directed upward or to the side without too much tilt. It also allows you to further difuse the redirected lights with another screen attached to the opening side of the half-snoot.
I am wondering if such concept is useful when a direct flash is not ideal, when bouncing is not possible, or when shooting outdoors, as well as if this would result in a better light quality than Sto-fen as far as on-flashgun diffusion is needed.
How do you see that the inside of the half-snoot is somehow reflectible?
I used white half-snoot (more reflectible) with a wider opening (less directional) but I love so much you ninja style. I believe your design or adjustment is based upon some experience and renders better light quality. Would you care to share with us the reason?
Many thanks and Happy New Year !
Geoff Said,
January 31, 2008 @ 10:04 am
Regarding this:
This piece of black foam around my speedlight has two advantages:
1. Directional light. I can now much more precisely direct where I want my light to come from.
Does this also in effect mean that the required power of the flash could be dialled down slightly as you are not losing as much light ‘around the sides’, or negligible effect?
Neil Said,
February 2, 2008 @ 10:47 pm
Nigel davis Said,
February 4, 2008 @ 7:23 pm
Hi Neil, Do you use the H setting of the Canon 580EX? I believe it lowers the output level, but it seems to simplify things. To me, it doesn’t appear to mentioned much, for something that appears to be a useful idea.
Neil Said,
March 11, 2008 @ 10:51 pm
Christopher Luk Said,
April 16, 2008 @ 4:36 pm
Thanks for sharing so many of your techniques with us on your blog! You’ve helped me learn so much about using my Speedlight effectively and making flash not look like “flash”. Perhaps I will see you in August when you come to Toronto.
I love the half-snoot idea of not blinding people! I’ll have to add one to my arsenal.
I still had a question about the situation of a venue having high ceilings or the walls/ceilings being strong colours. You’ve shown us that you’re using a Stofen with the gel; would you actually shoot the flash head straight forward in these situations? That brings us back to the direct straight-on flash that we all despise, but how do you still keep your classic Neil-styled captured light and shape?
Thanks again for your willingness to help and all your advice over the years.
Neil Said,
April 16, 2008 @ 8:46 pm
Fran Colonna Said,
April 20, 2008 @ 4:12 pm
Hi Neil, I just bought a D300 and set my in-camera flash settings to 30 and 320 but now when I put the SB800 on, it always indicates that it is in FP mode. I thought that it would only go in FP mode when you set your shutter to 250 or higher. What am I doing wrong or is there something wrong with either the flash or the camera?
Thank you for all the info—-I have hit sooo many ahaaaaa moments reading your blog!!
Fran
Neil Said,
April 22, 2008 @ 8:41 pm
Godfrey Tan Said,
May 10, 2008 @ 2:09 am
Neil,
I really like your sharing of flash techniques. Thanks so much. I love your tips.
Cheers,
Godfrey
Georgann Said,
June 27, 2008 @ 7:03 pm
Just found this blog via a flickr group. I love it. The info. you share is so helpful. Thank you so very much!
Cat Said,
July 9, 2008 @ 11:39 pm
FANTASTIC blog!! I Have leart so much will definatly be coming back again and again! Thank you so much for sharing all the tips!
planet neil - tangents » a light touch Said,
July 11, 2008 @ 3:03 am
[...] flash in that direction, and flagging any spill light from the flashgun. I most often use a piece of black foam to flagmy on-camera speedlight. The image above is from a recent wedding – the bride & groom’s [...]
Ralph Said,
July 13, 2008 @ 7:56 pm
Hi Neil,
Just a quick question, what are the approximate dimensions of your half-snoot modifier. Also, any idea about the thickness of foam?
Neil Said,
July 14, 2008 @ 5:51 pm
Harry Simpson Said,
July 15, 2008 @ 12:37 pm
Neil,
This answered my other question but on the foam, doesn’t the black foam actually absorb some light. Shouldn’t the flash side of the foam be shiny or reflective?
Thanks
Harry
Neil Said,
July 15, 2008 @ 6:05 pm
Kees Parlevliet Said,
July 20, 2008 @ 2:21 pm
Thx! for the sharing of all these techniques. Have not seen any professional photographer doing this. As an (Dutch) amateur I’m learning a lot! Also a question:
The 580EX in bounce position automatically goes to a GN42/137 because it puts the flashcoverage to 50mm. You can put it manually max to a flashcoverage 105mm, raising it to GN58/190. Well, you get the same amount of light anyhow, but more concentrated.
1) Have you considered, as you want with the foam to concentrate the light, to manually raise the flashcoverage? Thus spilling less light?
2) Special, when you use the Stofen with hole-in-the-head.
Kees
Neil Said,
July 21, 2008 @ 2:18 am
Paolo Said,
July 24, 2008 @ 5:41 pm
Hey Neil, great tips…amazing tips actually. Rarely I find someone giving so much like you.
I have a little question. I tried you half snoot and now i get some pop when the flash triggers…I just want to make sure that this is ok and I will not get issues related to this
thank you
Brian Daly Said,
August 12, 2008 @ 8:35 am
Neil,
I’m thinking the same as Harry Simpson above -
If we want to block the light in one direction only, why not have a white or silver coating on the inner side of the foam to minimize loss?
If we want to block the light in all directions except that in which the snoot is pointed, why note close the half-snoot into a full snoot?
Thanks,
Brian
Neil Said,
August 16, 2008 @ 4:36 am
Brian Daly Said,
August 16, 2008 @ 6:28 pm
Thanks for the clarification, Neil.
If I understand it correctly, a full snoot if too narrowly focused whereas a silver/white lined half-snoot acts like a reflector card bouncing light too widely. The half snoot allows you direct the light, but still allows a small amount of light to raise the ambient level.
Anyway, your results speak for themselves. This is one modifier I’ll definitely be trying.
Brian
INDRANIL CHOUDHURY Said,
August 28, 2008 @ 3:35 pm
Hi NEIL!
This is India calling. Been sharing your info with my friends in professional photography.
Been going through your blog. One thing that is striking is you are darn Good photographer and more importantly an honest one at that.Rare QUALITY these days.
I would like to know what technique you use when shooting
in halls with extremely high cielings-40′-50′. Ex: Church,Temples etc.
When shootings outdoors at night- EX :parties. We don’t get any walls to bounce off.
Doesn’t the half snoot eat into the flash output?
Is that why you have a quantum 2×2.
Eagerly awaiting your response.
Indranil.INDIA.
Neil Said,
September 1, 2008 @ 2:10 pm
Neil Said,
September 1, 2008 @ 2:13 pm
woz Said,
September 4, 2008 @ 1:47 pm
this is how light should look in an image…
its amazing how $10 techniques can look almost like shot-in-a-studio….
one thing though
what is a 1/2 cts filter ?
if i go to a shop and tell them that will they understand me ?
they can be a bit numb over here
woz
manchester
uk
Neil Said,
September 5, 2008 @ 4:26 pm
Luis Cruz Said,
September 16, 2008 @ 11:13 am
I love your lighting mods, but more importantly, I am blown away by your stunning images.
Right now though, I’m inspired to make myself a half-snoot. I’ve got a bounce card / flag, grids, and gel holder already, but I hadn’t thought of using a flag that was black on both sides. I was going to ask you why you didn’t use a white or reflective material on one side, but I found the answer in the comments.
Thanks for all the info you share!
Giuseppe Said,
September 17, 2008 @ 11:13 am
Hallo Neil,
my name is Giuseppe and I write you from Italy.
I would like to ask you this question: why your “piece of black foam” is black instead of white?
The black absorb the light while the white increase the light and you need light in your job.
White should be better for me.
Thank you so much for everything.
Giuseppe Lian
chak Said,
September 22, 2008 @ 12:24 pm
neil,I love everything I see on yr website…thanks
now u have a fan in thailand.
Melvin Said,
September 28, 2008 @ 9:26 pm
Hi Neil,
I have been using your black foam half snoot for some time now it produce the best looking pics! Thank you very much. However, I have one problem. The flash is always pointed to my left or right shoulder and it’s good for landscape orientation but if I shoot portraits, there will be a huge shadow cast by the snoot. What’s the best way to position the flash so that I can change to portrait orientation on the fly and still get good diffused light?
TIA!
Neil Said,
September 30, 2008 @ 3:39 am
Ben Said,
October 13, 2008 @ 10:15 am
I just wanted to thank you for this post. At the wedding I shot this weekend, using the half-snoot vs. the traditional diffuser made my lighting directional and believable vs. flat and artificial.
I want to emphasize your point of using an external power source for the flash when using this method. I used a Quantum Turbo pack with my flash and am pretty sure that it saved me at least 5 battery swaps during the course of the evening!
Dennison Uy Said,
January 13, 2009 @ 6:38 am
Hi Neil,
So let’s say the Flashgun did say FP mode is enabled how do you actually know that it did not go into high speed sync mode when you took the shot?
Neil Said,
January 13, 2009 @ 2:20 pm
Frank Said,
January 15, 2009 @ 11:51 am
Why not use a white foam snoot?
It will absorb less light than black foam.
Frank.
Neil Said,
January 16, 2009 @ 5:49 pm
planet neil - tangents » model - Seregon Said,
January 22, 2009 @ 7:39 pm
[...] make sure that I get NO direct flash on my model, and that all my light is indirect, I used the Black Foamie Thing ™. This is hugely important. I did not use any generic light modifier, but was very careful [...]
Bob White Said,
February 3, 2009 @ 3:52 pm
Hi Neil from the UK.
Is it difficult to cut the hardplastic of the ‘Stofen’?
Thanks for a brill blog.
Neil Said,
February 3, 2009 @ 6:13 pm
planet neil - tangents » light modifiers … Said,
February 25, 2009 @ 5:39 am
[...] asked, is which light modifier I would recommend … even though I explain that I mostly use The Black Foamie Thing ™ when indoors. (Here’s one recent example of the results I get with that light [...]
Alwin Koops Said,
March 2, 2009 @ 7:55 am
Hi Neil, I am going to make that black-half-snoot. It looks great! On the website abetterbouncecard.com I saw something that was called “the ultimate bouncecard”. It is your black-half-snoot with a pice of white reflective matrial on the inside so you can use direct flashlight also with the same card. What’s your opinion about this one? Does the white inside affect the directional light of the flash?
One other question: when there is REALY NOTHING to bounce the flashlight do you use the omnibounce then without the hole cut in it? Because when there is nothing to bounce at what’s the use of this hole?
And when in this situation you use a omnibounce without hole do you use it in 45 degrees?
Neil Said,
March 3, 2009 @ 8:21 pm
planet neil - tangents » … and far away … Said,
March 6, 2009 @ 11:21 am
[...] aluminium case with the red ends.) - one spare battery for the Canon 1D mkIII bodies. – two pieces of black foam which I use as my light modifiers, - on top of this I have displayed the cord and plug to recharge my iPhone and my iPod. - [...]
Val Said,
March 8, 2009 @ 12:52 am
When using the foamie, should the flash be set to a long or wide zoom range? One would expect to set it manually to longest zoom, but the flash just uses the zoom as if you pointed it forwards.
Neil Said,
March 10, 2009 @ 3:32 am
Shammi Said,
March 19, 2009 @ 4:36 pm
Neil:
When you choose to use a Stofen with a hole to throw some light forward, why not just use a small white card on the flash to bounce light forward? You could control the forward light by adjusting the height of the card. Would that work just as well as Stofen with a hole? Note: I am NOT suggesting this as a replacement for your Black Foamie Thing.
Great blog – learned a lot!
Thanks
Neil Said,
March 23, 2009 @ 3:29 am
Alwin Said,
March 24, 2009 @ 4:28 am
Hi Neil, I have used the black foam on several weddings now and I am very pleased with the results. Thank you very much for this advice!
Now I wonder when you use the stofen with the hole? When you are pointing your flash over your shoulder (for example) than it seems there is no use for adding this stofen with a hole? It seems to me this stofen with hole is only usefull when pointing the flash up at the ceiling and then the stofen will throw a little amount of flashlight around (and forward0 so that not all of the flashlight is coming from above?
Thanks for your answer!
Alwin Koops Said,
March 24, 2009 @ 4:48 am
Hi neil, when are you using the stofen with the hole? Is it helpfull when I put my flash straight up to the ceiling but I want also some flashlight throw forwards?
Thank you for your great site!
Alwin
Shammi Said,
March 24, 2009 @ 6:45 am
Alwin:
Read the above narrative with the stofen cut out picture for Neil’s description of when he uses it.
Neil:
Thanks for your response.
planet neil - tangents » destination wedding photography .. Said,
April 30, 2009 @ 7:20 pm
[...] black hair bands. (I use this to keep items in place such as the Black Foamie Things.) – two pieces of black foam which I use as my light modifiers, - on top of this I have displayed the cord and plug to recharge my iPhone and my [...]
Bob Said,
May 6, 2009 @ 11:46 am
Hi Neil
One question about your black foam. Do you think it will do a better job if the inner part is white in color (probably a white card)? something like the ultimate bounce card.
Or you prefer it black as you do not want too much light to be reflected?
Neil Said,
May 6, 2009 @ 12:46 pm
Sarai Said,
May 20, 2009 @ 11:58 am
How high of a ceiling would you say is too high to use the 1/2 snoot? If you only had the 1/2 snoot, stofen with hole, and one of those $40 diffusers as a set up for an event in a relatively dark room, with about 12-16 foot ceilings and chandeliers, would you just use the stofen with hole? When would you default to the 45 degree and diffuser without a hole??
Thanks! :)
Neil Said,
May 21, 2009 @ 9:19 am
planet neil - tangents » workshop view: Hoboken, NJ Said,
May 23, 2009 @ 1:54 am
[...] no hint of light coming from the camera’s view-point. To do this, I once again used the Black Foamie Thing ™ to control the light from my on-camera flash, shielding my flash. I pointed my flash 90′ to [...]
CHUCK Said,
May 26, 2009 @ 4:18 pm
Neil…I would like to know what size is the black foam sheet you use . Thanks…for your answer and for all the great information on photography you have given us all.
ernst Said,
May 26, 2009 @ 10:13 pm
CHUCK, Neil commented in an earlier post the size of his black foam was cut to 7″ x 6″. Neil said;
Ralph,
The piece of black foam is about 7″ x 6″.
But I am also hesitant in even saying that, because this article is not about the piece of black foam per se .. but much more about the idea that we need to direct our light. This is about technique, not ‘equipment’.
Neil vN
ernst Said,
May 26, 2009 @ 10:19 pm
Neil,
The series of three wedding shots you posted in this thread on September 8th, 2008 are amazing. I am blown away by the 3rd image. Wow.
With the 3rd image, can you share with us;
1.) where you pointed the black foam thingie. As the couple are on the dance floor, I am assuming there wasn’t a nearby wall to bounce off. Would you have pointed it straight up…or behind you?
2.) out of curiosity, could you tell us the lens and aperture you used. Faster than a 2.8?
Many thanks.
Ernst
Can I ask what lens you used and camera settings you used?
Neil Said,
May 27, 2009 @ 4:07 am
ernst Said,
May 27, 2009 @ 9:37 am
Hello Neil,
Thanks so much for the thoughtful, detailed response.
I have to say I also appreciate the two photographers who have kindly allowed me to tag along as a second shooter. One lives in Chicago (about two hours away) and the other splits his time between Pittsburgh and Florida. Yes, I am driving 800 miles to be a second shooter at a wedding in Pittsburgh! He is an award-winning photographer who apparently has taken pity on me so I might as well grab the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
I actually shot my first wedding (as a second photographer) last weekend in a very dimly lit ballroom. Initially, I felt like a duck out of water. And then a duck drowning. The Blank Foamie Thing was my life preserver!
And yes, as you guessed, I was trying to use as low a shutter speed/ISO combination as I could to keep noise down and still let in ambient light. I have another wedding coming up this weekend so I will try bumping ISO to 1600 (if need be) and shoot with a higher shutter speed.
One last quick question for Neil, or others; I am using a Nikon D300 with an SB600 flash. Is the flash powerful enough to bounce light off far away walls, tables, chairs etc. Or is the more powerful SB800 or SB900 desired/required?
Thanks again.
Ernst
Neil Said,
May 27, 2009 @ 2:43 pm
Brian Said,
May 28, 2009 @ 1:55 pm
Neil,
Been re-reading lots of stuff on your blog today. I read it all when I was starting out, then later when I knew a little more, and now, when I know a little more yet. Each time, as I bring more basic understanding, I get more to take back to the field with me. Hoping to make it to one of your workshops in the fall (my family is still up in NJ).
I do have one question, in the picture of the baby in this post, you have a flash catchlight in the eyes. Is that just from a “hotspot” on the 1/2 snoot or can the baby “see” the tube at an askance angle as it’s pointed away over your sholder? Haven’t played with the half snoot (as I do mostly outdoors work with blanced ambient and off camera flash) but have a family event coming up in a few weeks where I am going to use the snoot. One issue I’ve had using bounced flash (which I learned from you) is that there is often a lack of catchlight in the eyes of my subject. When I have the luxury of posing my subject, I make sure to get a catchlight from a lamp in the room, but during an event when I don’t have control, I’d like to get a catchlight.
Appreciate any advice.
Brian
Neil Said,
May 28, 2009 @ 2:47 pm
planet neil - tangents » throw away the tupperware! Said,
June 7, 2009 @ 2:38 am
[...] that the light from my flashgun comes from behind where the bride is standing. To achieve this, I flagged my flashgun so that no direct light from my flash fell onto the bride’s dress right …. Doing this enabled me to have more light fall on the bridesmaid behind the bride. In other [...]
Jeff Smith Said,
June 10, 2009 @ 8:35 am
Neil, first of all those images of the African American wedding are so beautiful-I trust the couple was happy!
Secondly, thanks for your generosity and sharing your thought processes. I shoot theatrical and music events and seldom am allowed to use flash-but, I have been studying, and shots like those above are really inspiring. I love how the stained glass retains its richness. You have a great sense of angles-how’s your pool playing? Thanks again.
Neil Said,
June 10, 2009 @ 5:41 pm
chuck Said,
June 19, 2009 @ 8:49 am
Just looked at Amazon about your comming book. How much new information is there in this book with only 128 pages?
Neil Said,
June 22, 2009 @ 3:56 am
olympus_fotograph Said,
June 22, 2009 @ 6:38 am
i would pay 50-60$ for a *really* good flashbook which covers from newbie to forced user of flash*g*.
nearly all the secrects from flashmaster neil.
i hope that it is a very fine tuning about this blog, not only a rough copy.
so the expectation is very high.
i´ve ordered my version months ago.
i think i have to convert a lot to the olympus system*hear you laughing*, so i did it with planet neil also.
so keep us (not so long) waiting for all surprises.
wish you good luck for your book, a very good start and a lot of fall off money!!
grts
peter
chuck Said,
June 22, 2009 @ 5:41 pm
Neil…..Please don’t get me wrong, I already intended purchasing the book for two reasons…One because I enjoy reading your concise flash photography information when I am away and not on my computer and I also would have purchased the book even if it had 128 pages of blank paper just to support your wonderful non-selfish blog. Your blog is the most thorough and informative education for me on flash photography. Thanks for all!!
Nigel Davis Said,
June 28, 2009 @ 2:28 pm
Hi Neil. I don’t know how you do everything you do, but I was wondering, with the black foam flash angle modifier/director….have you tried, instead, to manually adjust the flash’s zoom lens to the most tele position, so that it will cover a more central area? The difference is pretty noticeable with my Canon 580EX, I have found.
Thank you for your generosity in sharing your knowledge around, Neil.
Regards
Nigel davis
Neil Said,
June 28, 2009 @ 2:30 pm